Cymbidium Spike and Flower Care

The Problem This Explains

Cymbidium buyers often receive plants in flower or approaching flower, and then find the display shorter than expected, buds drop before opening, or spikes lean and collapse without support. Most of these outcomes are avoidable.

This Deep Dive covers spike staking, supporting open flowers, managing the display period, and what to do when flowering finishes.

When Spikes Appear

In cool to mild climates like the Dandenong Ranges and surrounding Victorian regions, Cymbidium spikes typically emerge from late autumn through winter. The trigger is cool nights — plants that have experienced adequate warmth during the growing season and then cool night temperatures from around 10 °C and below will initiate spikes.

Spikes emerge from the base of pseudobulbs as firm, pointed shoots. They are easily confused with new vegetative growth at early stages. Spike shoots tend to be rounder in cross-section and slightly more rigid; new vegetative growth is typically flatter and more leaf-like from the outset.

Staking Spikes Early

The single most important thing you can do for a Cymbidium spike is stake it early — before the buds develop weight.

A spike staked when it is 15–20 cm tall can be guided into the ideal position gradually. A spike staked after buds have formed is harder to redirect without stressing the stem, and attempting to reposition a spike with heavy buds risks snapping it or causing bud drop.

  • Use a bamboo cane or purpose-made Cymbidium stake inserted close to the spike base
  • Secure the spike loosely with a clip or soft tie — not tightly
  • Add support points progressively as the spike grows
  • For pendulous varieties, allow the spike to hang naturally rather than forcing it upright

Why Buds Drop

Bud drop is one of the most frustrating outcomes in Cymbidium culture. The most common causes are:

  • Sudden temperature change: Moving a plant from outdoors to indoors during the bud stage can cause stress and drop. Once buds are developing, minimise environmental changes.
  • Drying out: Cymbidiums in bud need consistent moisture. A plant that dries out significantly during bud development frequently drops buds before they open.
  • Ethylene exposure: Ripe fruit, gas appliances, and cigarette smoke all produce ethylene, which accelerates bud drop. Keep flowering plants away from these sources.
  • Physical disturbance: Repeatedly handling or repositioning a plant in bud increases stress. Choose a display location and leave it.

Displaying Open Flowers

Once flowers open, Cymbidiums are among the longest-lasting orchids in cultivation. Individual flowers typically last four to eight weeks under good conditions. The full spike can remain presentable for six to twelve weeks.

To maximise display life:

  • Keep the plant in a bright, cool position — warmth shortens flower life significantly
  • Avoid direct sun on open flowers, which fades colour and desiccates petals
  • Water consistently — root stress during flowering shortens the display
  • Do not move the plant unnecessarily once flowers have opened

Indoors vs Outdoors During Flowering

Many growers want to bring Cymbidiums indoors during flowering. This is fine for short periods — a few days to a week or two — but plants kept indoors for extended periods in low-light, warm conditions will decline faster.

A useful approach is to grow the plant outdoors through its normal cycle, bring it indoors when spikes are well-developed and some flowers are open, display it for one to two weeks, then return it to its outdoor growing position.

After Flowering: What to Do With the Spike

Once all flowers have finished, cut the spike back cleanly with sterile scissors or secateurs. Cut as close to the base as practical without damaging the pseudobulb. Do not leave spent spikes attached — they draw resources from the plant and can harbour disease in damp conditions.

After Flowering: Returning to the Growing Programme

The period after flowering — typically late winter into early spring — is when new root and pseudobulb growth begins. This is the most important growing window of the year.

  • Resume or increase watering as temperatures warm
  • Begin a light fertilising programme once new roots are visible
  • Consider repotting only if the plant is severely overcrowded or the medium has broken down — and only after new roots have started

Key Takeaway

Staking early, maintaining consistent moisture and cool conditions, and avoiding unnecessary disturbance will give you the longest and best display. After flowering, the focus shifts immediately back to supporting the next season’s growth.

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